Monday, August 1, 2011

Alaska Trip 2011: July 13-15 - Valdez Area Part 1

This is page 34 of our Alaska 2011 trip journal. Click here for the first page. If you want to bookmark this journal, http://jeanne-travels.blogspot.com always links to the newest page.

We spent a few days in Valdez, where we saw the beginnings of a salmon run, touched a glacier, and learned why the railroad goes to Cordova and not Valdez.


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Valdez
Valdez is another port city on the Gulf of Alaska. Like the Kenai Peninsula, the weather is heavily influenced by Pacific currents, making it mild in the winter (considering the latitude), and cool in the summer. And it rains almost every day, but it's usually just a sprinkle or two, and then it is gone. Because of the chilly weather, the Valdez version of the ice cream truck also carries hot soup and espresso.

The End of the Pipeline
We saw the beginning of the pipeline when we were in Deadhorse. Now we are at the end of the line, where the oil is loaded into ocean-going tankers for shipment.

Salmon Run
The salmon were just starting to run in Valdez when we were here. Naturally, this attracted a lot of attention - gulls, sea lions, otters, people, and of course eagles. The say the bears even show up in the area, though we did not see any while we were here.

The dark shadows in the water are schools of salmon. You can see all the fins in the closer picture. They are bunching themselves together to try to fool their predators into thinking they are a single very large object. Safety in numbers or something like that. It wasn't working. The brown blobs are sea lions tearing into them, and the gulls were feasting on what the sea lions left. Meanwhile, the eagles carried their meal back to the trees. The last picture shows some gulls having words about who gets what spot on the bridge rail. It loses something without the squawking.




Keystone Canyon
Like most towns in Alaska, there is only one road that goes there. Near Valdez, the one road passes through a steep, narrow canyon known as Keystone Canyon. The road follows the Lowe River through this canyon. How narrow is it? The braided river doesn't even have gravel bars as it passes through the narrowest part of the canyon. The first picture shows the wide river before it enters the canyon.




Waterfalls
Keystone Canyon is noted for its beautiful waterfalls. Horsetail Falls and Bridal Veil Falls are two of the most notable.



If this waterfall has a name, I don't know what it is. The water is crystal clear, indicating it is probably spring-fed. The river, on the other hand, is milky gray, indicating it is mostly glacial melt. You can see them mixing together in the second picture.


Railroad Wars
When they discovered rich copper ore deposits in the mountains north of Valdez, it was natural to think of building a railroad to the coast for shipping the ore. Valdez was the closest port, and the canyon would help keep down the cost of construction. So they started building it - this tunnel was to be part of the line.

Unfortunately for Valdez, the railroad was never built. There was a territorial dispute over who had the rights to build in Keystone Canyon, even going to the extent of having gun battles in the canyon. Meanwhile, the railroad was built across the mountains to Cordova, and Valdez lost out.

Thompson Pass
It was cloudy and drizzly when we got to Thompson Pass, and we started to get up into the low ceiling (around 3000 ft). This made the pictures a little hazy, but it was still a beautiful view. At its highest point, Thompson Pass is above the tree line. The road is nice and wide now, but in the past, heavy snowfalls made the pass pretty treacherous in the winter.



To be Continued...
Wow - we have lots of pictures from the Valdez area - think I'll split it into two pages.


Sunday, July 31, 2011

Alaska Trip 2011: July 10-13 Anchorage, Palmer, and the Road to Valdez

This is page 33 of our Alaska 2011 trip journal. Click here for the first page. If you want to bookmark this journal, http://jeanne-travels.blogspot.com always links to the newest page.

Sunday we continued our journey around the state, moving eastward now. We drove past Anchorage to Palmer, to get away from the city. From there, we drove the car back to Anchorage a couple times, for a little sightseeing and some errands. Then we drove from Palmer all the way down to Valdez, passing by a couple spots we will see on the way back.


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Anchorage
At about 275,000, Anchorage is the largest city in the state, and home to 40% of the population. The next largest cities are Fairbanks and Juneau, both in the 30,000 range.

We stopped at the visitor center downtown, where we met this sleepy-looking bear. A drive around the harbor yielded a view of the city skyline. The last view is from Earthquake Park, which commemorated the 1964 earthquake. The bluff we were standing on is above where the ground sunk during the quake. That spot will probably go down in the next quake. The clay underneath is of a type that basically turns to jelly when it shakes. This is only a matter of time, since this part of Alaska is on the Pacific Ring of Fire.


Alaska Native Heritage Center

We visited the Alaska Native Heritage Center, which had a museum, and some examples of native dewllings from the various tribes found in Alaska. There was also a presentation of native dancing. The strange-looking archway is the jawbone of a whale.


Palmer
Not much to see in Palmer. Supposedly they grow the world's largest vegetables, which they attribute to lots of sunlight from the long days, and lots of rain. We didn't see any of the giant veggies here, but we didn't look, either.

Palmer to Valdez

We stopped at Hatcher Pass, where the overlook gave us a really good view of what a braided river looks like. The water wanders about, changing course frequently within the wide banks. The gravel bars that have been around for a while start to grow vegetation; the others are bare. Ironically, when we walked back from the overlook, we met a couple taking a picture, not of the scenery, but our motorhome. They were from South Africa, and apparently they don't have big motorhomes there.

The Matanuska Glacier was visible from the road. As you can see in the pictures, this one is fairly large compared to some of the other glaciers we have seen.


More views from along the Glenn Highway, between Palmer and Glennallen, including Fireweed, which is just now starting to bloom.



Oh No! Flat tire!
At Glennallen, we turned south toward Valdez. When we pulled into a rest area a little past the turn, we discovered a flat tire on the trailblazer. There were no signs that it had run on the rim for any distance, so it was either a slow leak, or it just happened when we pulled in. We went the rest of the way to Valdez on the spare. It was a pretty big piece of metal, and the tire had to be replaced. The last picture shows the whole piece of metal after it was pulled from the tire.



Glacier Preview
Here is a preview of Worthington Glacier, as seen from a pullout on the road. We will visit this area later in the week.



Tuesday, July 26, 2011

Alaska Trip 2011: July 5-9 More Kenai Peninsula

This is page 32 of our Alaska 2011 trip journal. Click here for the first page. If you want to bookmark this journal, http://jeanne-travels.blogspot.com always links to the newest page.

After the holiday weekend, we moved from Seward to Soldotna. We chose this as a more or less central location for exploring the western side of the Kenai Peninsula. The eastern side of the peninsula is pretty much locked in by the Harding Icefield, but if you are a fisherman, the western Kenai is something this side of paradise. It's not only a beautiful area, but I guess the fishing is wonderful. Since we don't fish, we just enjoyed the scenery. Besides sightseeing, we also did a little just hanging out and relaxing.


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Kenai Weather
We actually took a drive to Soldotna before we moved the motorhome there. For some unknown reason, I only took a few pictures on the way. The first is a view of Skilak Lake, with the clouds hanging over the mountaintops as usual. The other picture is a rainbow that showed up when it started to rain. The weather in this area is pretty much a mystery to me. I think it's a mystery to the weather people too. They keep changing the forecasts, but the weather has stayed mostly the same. Because of Pacific Ocean currents from the Gulf of Alaska, it's cool-ish in the summer, and warm-ish in the winter. And it will probably rain, or at least sprinkle, some time during the day.


Trip to Homer
We took a sightseeing trip to Homer, at the southern tip of the Kenai Peninsula. Homer is basically a small fishing town, with both commercial and sport fishing. The road mostly follows the Cook Inlet, with periodic views of the Aleutians across the bay.

Moose Story
Just south of Soldotna, we spotted this moose family. I think these are my best moose pictures so far. Here's the story: Moose and babies grazing peacefully along road. Oncoming motorist, apparently annoyed at stopped traffic, blows horn on the way by, and critters start toward woods. Then moose pause to see if they are still being pursued. Finally they head into the woods




Cook Inlet
Some views of Cook Inlet from an overlook along the road, from Ninilchik Beach, and from near Homer. Some of the mountains are hard to see through the haze.




These wild geraniums were at an overlook near Homer.

The Farthest West You Can Drive
At 151 degrees, 52 minutes West, the beach at Anchor Point is the westernmost place that you can get to by car, not just in Alaska, but anywhere on the continent. Anchor Point also provided some scenic views of the bay, and a view of eagles and gulls fishing in the low tide.



The Russian Influence

This area was originally settled by the Russians. This historic Russian Orthodox church was in one of the small communities along the road to Homer.

City of Kenai
The next day we drove to the city of Kenai, and from there to Captain Cook State Park. The views on this drive were similar to those on the road to Homer, all the way down to the Russian Orthodox church, and the hazy views across the inlet.




R & R
Beide sighteeing in the area, we also spent a little time just "hanging out" and relaxing. It's good to do that from time to time, and we are getting better at it, the longer we are on the road. I also a geocaching "meet and greet" event that coincidentally happened while we were in Soldotna. How could I pass up a chance to go to a geocaching event 3000+ miles from home?