Showing posts with label National Parks. Show all posts
Showing posts with label National Parks. Show all posts

Wednesday, August 3, 2011

Alaska Trip 2011: July 18-24 - Closing the Loop

This is page 35 of our Alaska 2011 trip journal. Click here for the first page. If you want to bookmark this journal, http://jeanne-travels.blogspot.com always links to the newest page.

Thursday we moved from Valdez to Glennallen. This area once contained one of the richest copper mining areas in the world. From here we will visit the hisitoric town of Copper Center, and Wrangell-St. Elias National Park. Wrangell-St. Elias is our largest national park, encompassing the Wrangell Mountains as well as the St. Elias Range. It also contains part of the Bagley Icefield, the largest icefield in North America, which also extends into Canada. But like many of the parks in Alaska, you can only see a small part of it. Most of it is true wilderness, but there are two roads where you can drive part way into the park.

Fireweed
The fireweed is blooming, and I have been watching for a spot to get a good picture. A pullout along the road gave provided an opportunity to see them on the banks of the stream. Fireweed can cover entire hillsides when they are blooming. It is called fireweed, because it is one of the first plants to show up in areas that have been burned.



McCarthy Road
One of the two roads in Wrangell-St.Elias was along an old railroad bed that went to the towns of Kennicott and McCarthy. It was basically a 60-mile gravel road, but we have learned that in this part of the world, gravel roads are not necessarily worse than paved roads. You do have to drive a little slower on them, though. McCarthy was a town that sprung up near the company town of Kennicott, outside of company control. Here you would find services not sanctioned by the mining company, such as bars, and... well, you know. Today there are gift shops, restaurants, and tour guides. Somehow, I failed to get any pictures at McCarthy, but I did get some from along the road.



Although the road was built on an old railroad bed, it bypassed most of the old trestles - they were probably in no condition for traffic. The lighting is not good in this picture, but it shows one of the trestles, which is still standing. Sort of.


On the way in, we saw a camper that had pulled over to allow oncoming traffic to pass, got over the edge of the road, and was leaning precariously. After making sure he had help coming, we went on out way, but on the way back we took a look at the rut he left. It looks like the only thing that kept him from rolling sideways was the fact that his axle bottomed out on the pavement, keeping it from rolling further. These gravel surfaces are harder than they look.

No, the picture is not sideways. It's the edge of the road.

Liberty Falls was not actually on the McCarthy road - it is a state park along the road that goes to McCarthy Road.


Kennicott Glacier
The Kennicott Glacier ends right near town. The only thing is, it doesn't look like a glacier at this point. At first, I thought these peaks were mine tailings or something, but I learned that is not the case. At one point, the glacier was as much as 175 feet higher than it is now. As the ice melts, some of the accumulated debris is left on top. The peaks and valleys are caused by variations in the thickness of the debris, causing the ice to melt at different rates. If you look closely, you can see patches of ice among the peaks. There are mine tailings here also - they are in the lower, rounded piles of gravel in the foreground.


Kennicott
Kennicott was basically a company town, where the mine workers lived, along with support personnel, such as food service and health care workers. It was pretty much under the control of the mining company, and was apparently a pretty nice place as mining camps go. The buildings here are in various stages of repair. The park service is in the process of restoring some of the buildings and stabilizing others. Stabilizing means just making it safe to enter, but not changing the appearance of the building. I guess this is so you can view it as if it were the ghost town that it is, but without as much risk. We did not see the mine itself, which was a serious hike up into the mountain.




They call this a high rail vehicle. It is used to go from road to rail, and back. Railroads still use them today, for much the same purpose, but with more modern cars, of course.

Mill Tour
See that big, tall building over there? Besides the buildings at town level, our tour took a path up the hill all the way to the top of the mill. We were both huffing and puffing by the time we got there. We had to wear hard hats while we were actually inside the mill. We saw the machinery used to separate most of the rock from the ore. Like the buildings, the machinery was in various states of repair. The only pictures I took inside were a couple of views of the town from the top.




I thought the tour guide's attire was interesting - heavy fleece hoodie, woolly stocking cap, and sandals.


He did show us a good example of copper ore, and the rock that would hae been separated from it at the mill.

Copper Center

The next day we drove to Copper Center, a historic town that is not part of the national park. We had a pretty good lunch at the restaurant there, and went through a nearby museum. We also saw some good views of the Wrangell Mountains from along the road. Typical of mountains around here, you have to look closely to separate mountains from clouds.

Tok Cutoff
Sunday we packed up and headed for Tok, along a road called Tok Cutoff. so we got out of the car, cut off our Tok...

We saw more fields of fireweed, more mountains, and more braided rivers.



Nabesna Road

Nabesna Road is the other road that goes into Wrangell-St. Elias National Park. Like the McCarthy Road, it is also a narrow gravel road. It is a little more rugged than the McCarthy Road, and has three or four water crossings. We start with Mt. Sanford and Mt. Wrangell with their heads in the clouds, followed by some wildflowers.



Here's a mystery. Why was there a single mushroom, looking quite fresh, just laying in the middle of the road?

More Scenery along the way


We reached the end of the road. Actually, it looked like it might have been possible to go further, but the sign did say Road Closed. There were more mystery mushrooms here, but these were smaller and still growing.


These yellow and white flowers were pretty much identical except for the color.


On the way back, we snapped some more scenery, and a spot where the road was beginning to wash away.



Completing the Circle
This might be a good place for a map.
When we returned to Tok, it was the completion of the full circle around the state. Or at least the part of the state that has roads. We still have a couple places left in Alaska to see, but at this point we have closed the loop.


Friday, July 22, 2011

Alaska Trip 2011: June 29, July 1 - Kenai Fjords

This is page 31 of our Alaska 2011 trip journal. Click here for the first page. If you want to bookmark this journal, http://jeanne-travels.blogspot.com always links to the newest page.

If you are watching the dates on these posts, you will notice a couple days here out of sequence. Sometimes I like to cover things in a logical sequence, rather than jumping around from place to place and back.

The Harding Icefield and the glaciers flowing from it cover over 700 square miles, making it one of the the largest icefields in North America. They are not sure how deep it is, but they do know it is over 1,000 feet in some places. Kenai Fjords National Park encompasses part of this area.


View Larger Map

This map shows a satellite view of the area. The large, white area is the Harding Icefield. The grayish stripes coming between the mountain tops are the glaciers spawned from the icefield.

Exit Glacier
Exit Glacier is northwest of Seward, along the eastern of the icefield. It is the only place where you can get into the national park by road. Other than that, it is only accessible by sea or air. They called this one Exit Glacier, because it was the most convenient place for expeditions to exit the icefield.

The first view of the glacier is along the road into the park. The glacial stream at this point was also quite high, although I'm quite sure it is a wide braided river somewhere behind the brush. It just happened to braid itself along the road at this point. In other words, it has a lot of room to spread before it encroaches on the road.




From the visitor center you can take a short hike to a closer view of the glacier, or a much longer hike up to the icefield. I probably would have enjoyed seeing the icefield, but the distance and elevation change would have been a lot more than I could have handled. We did take the shorter hike, though. We were also able to walk out onto the outwash plain, but not all the way to the glacier.



And what would a walk in the woods be without more wildflowers? Seems every place we go, we see something else that we have not seen before. First is Pink Pyrola, also known as Arctic Wintergreen, the other two pictures are Columbine.



We first saw Cow Parsnips around Trapper Creek. They are huge, looking like Queen Anne's Lace on steroids, but prickly and feeling like stinging nettles. In some areas they dominate the roadside, to the exclusion of other plants. I'm not sure if they are a wildflower, or more like a weed.


This isn't a wildflower, but still it was interesting. Notice how most of the leaves are missing from the bushes here. These are willows, a favorite treat for moose. We also saw mooseberries (i.e. scat) along the path, so it was pretty clear there had been moose in the area fairly recently, making the path into a bit of a smorgasbord. But they probably make themselves scarce during the daytime when there are a lot of people around. At any rate, we didn't see any while we were here.

Kenai Fjords Glacier Cruise
We took a tour boat to see some of the glaciers from the water, and hoping to see some calving as well. The tour focused more on the sea life than the glaciers, so I was a little disappointed about that. But we did see sea life, and a calving glacier, and beautiful scenery, so it was still a good trip.



Humpbacks
Of course we saw humpback whales, but the pictures we got were not as good as the last trip. We also saw orca later in the trip, but were not able to get pictures.


Sea Lions

We saw sea lions surrounded by beautiful scenery, but no harbor seals on this trip...


Puffins
Puffins are strange birds, looking kind of like a cross between a penguin and a duck. They stand like a penguin, and swim like a duck. These are the only puffins we have seen, so I am including the pictures even though they are really fuzzy and bad.




There were also three cormorants on a nearby ledge. You can't see them very well in the picture because it's so fuzzy.

Bear Glacier

It's hard to tell from the picture, but Bear Glacier is land-locked, so we did not cruise up to it. So far, it is one of the largest glaciers we have seen, even though it was only at a distance.

More Scenery
These pictures were taken as we sailed around the point into Aialik Bay to see Holgate Glacier.



Holgate Glacier

A glacier that ends in the sea is called a tidewater glacier. When ice chunks fall from a tidewater glacier, it is called calving. The calving causes the glacier to pretty much end in a huge wall of ice. Holgate is our first view of a tidewater glacier. The first picture was actually taken as we left the area, but it's the best view of the entire glacier. When you get closer to the ice wall, you can't see the top as well.


The next two pictures show the ice wall - the second is a closer view near the top. As the glacier moves downhill, it splits and breaks, creating sometimes deep and treacherous crevasses. You can actually hear the breaking, echoing across the crevasses, and sounding almost like rifle shots. You can see some of the splits here, but I think you have to be on top to atually see much of the crevasses.


The next picture shows a little waterfall squirting out from under the glacier. Of course that is not the only water coming from the glacier, but most of it is not visible.


The pile of ice in the next picture is fallen ice from the calving.


Nearby Views

There was another glacier also coming down to the Holgate Arm, though it was landlocked. Here is a picture of it, and a couple other spots on the crest of the Holgate Arm.


Icebergs
The glacial ice crackles and pops like rice krispies as it melts in the water. This is caused by air that was trapped as the ice crystals formed. I took some pictures of the icebergs, including one with a sea lion basking on top.