Wednesday, August 3, 2011

Alaska Trip 2011: July 18-24 - Closing the Loop

This is page 35 of our Alaska 2011 trip journal. Click here for the first page. If you want to bookmark this journal, http://jeanne-travels.blogspot.com always links to the newest page.

Thursday we moved from Valdez to Glennallen. This area once contained one of the richest copper mining areas in the world. From here we will visit the hisitoric town of Copper Center, and Wrangell-St. Elias National Park. Wrangell-St. Elias is our largest national park, encompassing the Wrangell Mountains as well as the St. Elias Range. It also contains part of the Bagley Icefield, the largest icefield in North America, which also extends into Canada. But like many of the parks in Alaska, you can only see a small part of it. Most of it is true wilderness, but there are two roads where you can drive part way into the park.

Fireweed
The fireweed is blooming, and I have been watching for a spot to get a good picture. A pullout along the road gave provided an opportunity to see them on the banks of the stream. Fireweed can cover entire hillsides when they are blooming. It is called fireweed, because it is one of the first plants to show up in areas that have been burned.



McCarthy Road
One of the two roads in Wrangell-St.Elias was along an old railroad bed that went to the towns of Kennicott and McCarthy. It was basically a 60-mile gravel road, but we have learned that in this part of the world, gravel roads are not necessarily worse than paved roads. You do have to drive a little slower on them, though. McCarthy was a town that sprung up near the company town of Kennicott, outside of company control. Here you would find services not sanctioned by the mining company, such as bars, and... well, you know. Today there are gift shops, restaurants, and tour guides. Somehow, I failed to get any pictures at McCarthy, but I did get some from along the road.



Although the road was built on an old railroad bed, it bypassed most of the old trestles - they were probably in no condition for traffic. The lighting is not good in this picture, but it shows one of the trestles, which is still standing. Sort of.


On the way in, we saw a camper that had pulled over to allow oncoming traffic to pass, got over the edge of the road, and was leaning precariously. After making sure he had help coming, we went on out way, but on the way back we took a look at the rut he left. It looks like the only thing that kept him from rolling sideways was the fact that his axle bottomed out on the pavement, keeping it from rolling further. These gravel surfaces are harder than they look.

No, the picture is not sideways. It's the edge of the road.

Liberty Falls was not actually on the McCarthy road - it is a state park along the road that goes to McCarthy Road.


Kennicott Glacier
The Kennicott Glacier ends right near town. The only thing is, it doesn't look like a glacier at this point. At first, I thought these peaks were mine tailings or something, but I learned that is not the case. At one point, the glacier was as much as 175 feet higher than it is now. As the ice melts, some of the accumulated debris is left on top. The peaks and valleys are caused by variations in the thickness of the debris, causing the ice to melt at different rates. If you look closely, you can see patches of ice among the peaks. There are mine tailings here also - they are in the lower, rounded piles of gravel in the foreground.


Kennicott
Kennicott was basically a company town, where the mine workers lived, along with support personnel, such as food service and health care workers. It was pretty much under the control of the mining company, and was apparently a pretty nice place as mining camps go. The buildings here are in various stages of repair. The park service is in the process of restoring some of the buildings and stabilizing others. Stabilizing means just making it safe to enter, but not changing the appearance of the building. I guess this is so you can view it as if it were the ghost town that it is, but without as much risk. We did not see the mine itself, which was a serious hike up into the mountain.




They call this a high rail vehicle. It is used to go from road to rail, and back. Railroads still use them today, for much the same purpose, but with more modern cars, of course.

Mill Tour
See that big, tall building over there? Besides the buildings at town level, our tour took a path up the hill all the way to the top of the mill. We were both huffing and puffing by the time we got there. We had to wear hard hats while we were actually inside the mill. We saw the machinery used to separate most of the rock from the ore. Like the buildings, the machinery was in various states of repair. The only pictures I took inside were a couple of views of the town from the top.




I thought the tour guide's attire was interesting - heavy fleece hoodie, woolly stocking cap, and sandals.


He did show us a good example of copper ore, and the rock that would hae been separated from it at the mill.

Copper Center

The next day we drove to Copper Center, a historic town that is not part of the national park. We had a pretty good lunch at the restaurant there, and went through a nearby museum. We also saw some good views of the Wrangell Mountains from along the road. Typical of mountains around here, you have to look closely to separate mountains from clouds.

Tok Cutoff
Sunday we packed up and headed for Tok, along a road called Tok Cutoff. so we got out of the car, cut off our Tok...

We saw more fields of fireweed, more mountains, and more braided rivers.



Nabesna Road

Nabesna Road is the other road that goes into Wrangell-St. Elias National Park. Like the McCarthy Road, it is also a narrow gravel road. It is a little more rugged than the McCarthy Road, and has three or four water crossings. We start with Mt. Sanford and Mt. Wrangell with their heads in the clouds, followed by some wildflowers.



Here's a mystery. Why was there a single mushroom, looking quite fresh, just laying in the middle of the road?

More Scenery along the way


We reached the end of the road. Actually, it looked like it might have been possible to go further, but the sign did say Road Closed. There were more mystery mushrooms here, but these were smaller and still growing.


These yellow and white flowers were pretty much identical except for the color.


On the way back, we snapped some more scenery, and a spot where the road was beginning to wash away.



Completing the Circle
This might be a good place for a map.
When we returned to Tok, it was the completion of the full circle around the state. Or at least the part of the state that has roads. We still have a couple places left in Alaska to see, but at this point we have closed the loop.


Tuesday, August 2, 2011

Alaska Trip 2011: July 15-17 - Valdez Area Part 2

This is page 34 of our Alaska 2011 trip journal. Click here for the first page. If you want to bookmark this journal, http://jeanne-travels.blogspot.com always links to the newest page.

We continued our stop in Valdez with a visit to Worthington Glacier, followed by some more sightseeing around the area destroyed by the earthquake, a couple of museums, and the port of Valdez.

Worthington Glacier

View Larger Map

The highlight of our trip up the road from Valdez was a visit to Worthington Glacier. I have become somewhat fascinated by all the glaciers in Alaska. Unimaginable amounts of snow compressed into massive sheets of ice that become so heavy that they actually flow downhill. Icefields so big that they spawn many glaciers, both large and small. Wide, braided rivers that hold more gravel than water, deposited by the receding glaciers. It's all pretty amazing.


We had seen a preview of Worthington Glacier on the way to Valdez, and today we came back for a closer look. We were able to walk all the way out to the glacier, though for us, it was a pretty rugged hike. You start out with a fairly easy stroll on a paved walk to a viewing platform. From there, you have to find your way across the moraine and streams of meltwater.


We didn't take many pictures on the way up to the glacier, as we were focused on getting there. So we'll start with the pictures at the end of the glacier, showing we really did get there.






On the way back, I took some pictures looking forward and backward, showing the area we had to cross, and caught some flowers growing in the rocks of the moraine. Of course, the hike was a little easier going back down.




Valdez Glacier
You could not actually see Valdez Glacier from the end of the road that went to it - it has apparently receded beyond view. All you could see was the pond that you sometimes have near the end of a glacier, and icebergs. But judging by the size of the icebergs, and the amount of water in the stream that comes from it, there must be a pretty good sized glacier back there.


Museums
We visited two museums while here, but I forgot to take pictures at the first one which focused on Valdez history. The most significant events in Valdez history were the Exxon Valdez spill, which happened about 25 miles up the coast, and the 1964 earthquake. It might have been interesting to see where the spill happened, but the only way to get there would have been by boat, and I didn't want to see it that badly.

The other museum was a large collection of Alaskan artifacts. Many of them were items created by natives for the tourist trade, but they were pretty cool anyway. And after all, tourism is part of history also. I was most impressed by the ivory carvings - even the ships are ivory.


And for some reason, I just can't seem to resist taking pictures of good taxidermy.



Backroad
Backroads are pretty rare in this state. It's all they can do to keep their highways passable. We could see this road on the map, but had a little trouble finding the right place to turn onto the road. Once we did, we were rewarded with more beautiful scenery, and more waterfalls. We turned around when we got to the broken bridge. The road went around the bridge and forded the stream, but you could see that it deteriorated a lot on the other side. We decided it was a good place to turn around.




Old Valdez
Valdez was the town closest to the epicenter of the 1964 earthquake. The resulting tsunami destroyed the dock, and did considerable damage to the town, but contrary to popular opinion, the town was not washed away. The buildings that survived were moved a new location, on a little higher ground. All you can see of the old town is the foundation of the old post office. I'm not sure if the old dock remnants and equipment were from that time or not. We also took pictures of the harbor while we were there.




Leaving the Coast
Valdez will probably be our last stop along the coast of Alaska. From here, we will be heading back inland, where we will expect the weather to be more like summer, though still not anywhere near the heat wave everyone else is experiencing.